Hello and welcome to EuroCoons Family! If you are reading these instructions it means that you have embarked on an amazing journey and about to experience what it's like to not only own a real 100% European Maine Coon kitten, but foremost a EuroCoons kitten! We are confident that you will find no equivalence to one of our precious babies, who are everything a Maine Coon dream can be: large, exotic looking, extra loving, cuddly and yes, your kitten will come pre-spoiled when they leave our home and cattery ;) So, please prepare!
Below, please see general info on care for your new and amazing EuroCoons kitten.
Here you will find everything from what you need to bring with you to pick up your baby - to information on his/her diet, toys we use at the cattery as well as some grooming tips and supplies.
We do provide a care package, so you will have some food for the first 3-5 days at least. Please make sure you bring a carrier (airline approved for those who are flying) and have food and water bowls (fountain), and at least 2 litter boxes with the same litter as suggested below on hand at home. Please note, we will not let a kitten leave without an enclosure, so that is a very important piece - not to forget!
Your kitten's main diet consists of 3-4 feedings of Darwin's Raw Cat food a day (Chicken and/or Turkey; Lamb is too hard on their tummies). At the cattery they also get one home-made meal a day, such as cooked (in the crock-pot or boiled) variety of meats, chicken, turkey, rabbit, fish, and or roast, mixed with hearts, gizzards and livers. We do add a mix of vitamins made for home made raw or cooked meals (all links provided below) to make our home-cooked meals complete. We also use canned food ( listed below) either as 2 of the daily meals or to mix into raw if the kitty gets picky sometimes, or you may prefer to just mix a can into raw anyways. Remember the key to optimal growth is abundance and variety of high quality food (expensive is not always high quality, so please steer clear of Royal Canin, Science Diet, Prescription Diets, etc etc)
We greatly encourage you to stick to the same kind of diet through the kitten’s lifetime, with 90% or more of his/her diet being raw/wet food not dry. But especially during the first few years of life. During the first 12 month kittens go through a lot of development, of their digestive system and getting their baby teeth and then adult teeth. Their tummies and their gums are sensitive, so they can not and do not eat as much dry food as they need to support proper development, and canned food causes digestive issues 99% of the time as our experience shows, because of all the fillers and preservatives that they have to add even to the best of the best canned food brands. Freeze dried raw is another good option but it is quite a bit more expensive than professionally made raw.
Personally, we feed all our cats raw food and some canned for those picky eaters – this is their diet for life!
Kittens need meals more often, smaller portions of raw/wet 3-4 times a day or every 4-6 hours. After you pick up your kitten they will be going through growth spurts almost continuously so increase in portions and number of servings is to be expected. And we feed our adult cats 3 times a day with raw/home-made meals as well!
Please go over the food section and let me know if you have any questions.
We feed our kittens Raw Cat Food Diet from Darwins Natural Pet Products and here is the link to their site https://www.darwinspet.com/cat-food/
You can start with your first order being a "trial" and get 10 pounds of raw cat food for only $14.95. And here is the link to the trial.
With Darwins you have to place your order by Monday, they only ship once a week. Until you get a subscription and have your order amounts and frequency all figured out.
They also have lots of useful information meant to educate pet owners on the benefits of raw. So make sure to check that out!
We truly believe and our experience shows that this is the best nutrition we can provide for our babies and the best advise we can give you for the future of your new kitten! We do not receive any commissions on sales of this food. Well, I think they give us a free pound of raw in our next shipment if you mention my name, as referral credit 🙂
Of course, there are other brands of raw foods as well, like, Vital Essentials, Stella and Chewy, Primal, etc. However, we found that our cats dislike all those foods due to the high percentage of vegetables and fruits in them, which felines simply do not need in such high amounts, if any at all.
Raw comes frozen to your door from Darwin's. You keep it frozen. It takes at least 24 hours to defrost in the fridge. And it will keep in the fridge for up to 72 hours after.
When it's time to feed, I simply take a package/ 1 square (for you it will be one as your kitten will eat no more than half .25 lbs to one whole package .5 lbs ) and drop it in hot water (boil water before to kill possible bacteria) In 10 minutes or so it's completely defrosted and even slightly warmed and ready to eat. If you open the package and the middle is still somewhat frozen - break it up, mix well and pop in in the microwave for about 15-20 seconds (depending on the power of your microwave)
Below you will find canned foods that your kitten has been eating. As I have mentioned we like to give them variety of foods to cover the largest spectrum of nutrients and train your kittens tummy to accept new foods in a less stressful way to their digestive system.
Earthborn Holistic Chicken Catcciatori (please not the Jumble with Liver it is known to upset tummies)
also you may like to have digestive aid food on hand just in case if any food related tummy upsets and we use
Now as far as supplements (if you decide to cook home meals only!) we use CarnivoreRAW with Calcium by Youngagain for our home-made cooked meals. You need to purchase with calcium because you will not be grinding your own bones into their meals. So you just add this mix of vitamins and minerals to the cooked meat (if you desire to make some for your kitten) or if you decide to make your own Raw meals. We also use salmon oil or Omega 3-6-9 supplement to add to our home-made meals. You can get that on chewy.com or anywhere else you'd like. About 2 capsules per every pound of meat.
Please note that you DO NOT add additional vitamins to Darwin's Raw meals. Those already contain all required vitamins and minerals. Extra Omegas can never hurt and we do add some to our cat's meals.
We really do not use many treats if any at all, to be honest. I feel cooked chicken or salmon or even steak are best treats. But if I ever need to buy treats I always go with freeze dried raw like, Ketogenic Petfoods Freeze Dried Chicken or Beef Heart or Slamon, Primal, Stella & Chewy's Chicken and Salmon freeze dried morsels and/or Pure Bites Treats :) You can search for them on Chewy's site.
Primal and Stella & Chewy's can also be used as a reconstituted raw meal if you are ever out of Darwins. Just add water!
We only use and recommend using purified drinking water from gallons you can get at a store or bottled water, filtered in other words.
Cats are very fickle and have to have their water to be clean otherwise they won't drink much and they like their water fresh. I empty and wash my dishes at least twice a day.
We have always recommended using a flat food dish so it does not interfere with kitten’s/ cat’s sensitive whiskers as it can put them off their food and cause stress/ irritation. Now they make special bowls to prevent whisker fatigue, like this one.
For kittens, we use So Phresh Odor Control Paper Litter. Make sure to avoid any strong fragrance in the litter as it can turn the kitty away. You can eventually transfer them onto any litter you'd like. We do suggest that if you choose a different clumping litter, it is some kind of a natural litter that is flushable like World's Best cat litter. Basically, one that will not cause harm if ingested by your kitten.
It is very important to properly introduce the new kitten into a new home. We recommend 2 litter boxes in a small room where the kitten will feel safe, such as the master bedroom or another bedroom if there are other animals in the master suite. Isolation to that “safe room" is very important for up to a week, sometimes two, so the kitten learns the smells and where his safe area and litter boxes are. Then the kitten can be GRADUALY introduced to other rooms of the house. The litter box travels with the kitten if the kitten is moved to another room. Basically, we cannot expect a little kitten to know where the litter box is if he doesn’t know the lay out of the house. And it takes a while to learn it for a young kitten. They are just like children. If they play too much they may forget where they are supposed to go and need potty breaks. So bring your kitten to their litter box often if you play or just enjoy being around the house together!
We also suggest to initially use litter attractant (Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra Litter Attractant) to help with the memory and learning the litter box location. Or at least have it on hand. Again you can sear for Dr. Elsey's litter attractant on Chewy.com
We recommend AGAINST using any kind of liners in the box as it can push the kitten away from using the litter box. Just 2 clean open litter boxes of medium-large size with about 3 inches of litter will do perfectly.
All kinds of scratching pads and cat toys/loungers. They love them!
Petstages Tower of Tracks Cat Toy, 10-inch
Catit Senses 2.0 Wave Circuit Cat Toy
Chasers & teasers, specifically feathers and squeaking toys
All kinds of balls, springs, and Catnip, of course.
Again, we get most of it on Chewy.com
All cats love a good laser, a water fountain, and of course, a cat tree.
Please make sure you have a cat tree set up prior to the arrival of your kitten. We recommend a medium size to start with, something for a kitten not too tall (up to 5 feet at most) Cat tree is a must not a luxury. We recommend a tree per cat in every major area of the house (where you spend most time in) like bedroom and living room for example. And a scratching post or lounger in every area where the furniture is that you do not want to be scratched.
A comb or a dog brush like this will do. You can use any kitten shampoo.
I advise my clients against using any kind of collars around their kitten's neck (it will damage the coat) and be very gentle with brushing tails (hard brushing of the tail will turn Maine Coon's Tail into a regular cat's tail, at best, speaking from personal experience :(
Pick up time and vet visit:
If you haven't scheduled your pick up time yet, please do so as soon as possible.
Please keep in mind that we schedule others to pick up their kittens on the same day and we ask that you are as close on time as possible.
We try to be flexible and accommodating, that is why we provide at least 3 days for pickup. If the kitten is not picked up on one of those days, please know that the deposit becomes forfeit and the kitten will be available to another family for adoption.
I will also email the contract/protection agreement for your review in the next few days.
It will again outline the process of bringing them home and at least 72-hour separation period, as well as the new patient appointment with your vet info. We ask that you set up a new patient appointment and take your new kitten for a vet check within 48 hours of pick up to verify their good health.
Please let me know if you have any questions. And of course, you can contact me any time you need after the pick-up. We ask our families to stay in touch and send us pictures and regular updates as much as they would like and is possible.
Olga with EuroCoons
please select and download Genetic Test Results for your kitten(s)' parents
All of our breeding Maine Coon Cats are Tested Prior to Breeding and are Negative for 40+ genetic disorders, including some of the most common ones, such as:
MPS 6, MPS 7 - Mutation #1, MPS 7 - Mutation #2, MPS 7 - Mutation #3, Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA-CEP290), Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA-CRX), Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency, Polycystic Kidney Disease, Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM-Maine Coon), SMA
Our Maine Coon cats are also tested prior to entering the cattery and are negative for Fiv/FeLV.
EuroCoons | European Maine Coon Breeder | CFA & TICA Registered Maine Coon Cattery
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Site Updated October 13th, 2021
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